Mysterious Smog

And the beat goes on. . .
So I’ve uploaded some videos. One is the audio recording I took at the café last week set to some pictures I’ve taken around Alexandria. The pictures are poor quality because I had to compress the video in order to be able to upload it, but enjoy anyway.
The second video is an audio recording I took standing on our balcony listening to the adhan, or call to prayer, in the evening. We have at least 3 or 4 different mosques in close proximity to our apartment, so we get a deep, rich chorus of voices at prayer time. My favorite time to hear the call to prayer in our area is the very first one of the day around 5am. The streets are so quite that it is the only noise around and it has a very strange, eerie echo. I will try to get a recording of that, but as you can guess, I’m usually asleep at that time. It woke me up the first couple of nights I slept in our apartment, but I sleep through it now.
Just a couple of updates from the week. First, the weather has been insanely hot and humid here this week. I mean, it blows your mind that one can actually sweat that much. There’s also a thick haze that settled around the city. It’s like a fog- you can see it down the streets when you look out our window. Normally when looking out onto the sea, you can see the coast of the city and the citadel in the distance. However, this week, you can see nothing but a white thick mist. We’ve heard several reasons from various Egyptians as to why this is. Reason A) it is pollution from Cairo that got carried in on some wind and will be blown out again before getting cold. B) It is sand blowing in from the desert. This usually occurs in the spring time, but rarely in the fall. Either way, it should clear out in a few days, we hope.
My roommates and I have switched from taking taxis in the morning to taking the tram. It actually turns out to take about the same amount of time because there is so much traffic on the roads that even the slow moving tram moves faster. It’s nice in the morning, but it’s rough taking the tram home. It moves a lot slower and it’s a ton more crowded. I was so packed in the tram today that I couldn’t lift or move my arms because I was pressed against other people. That’s why I always ride the women’s car- being that close to a bunch of men only invites trouble on the tram. But I was way more up close and personal with a bunch of Egyptian women that I ever really wanted to be today. Add the super hot humid weather we’ve been having- and you’ve got yourself one LONG tram ride.
Finally really starting to get into work at my internship. Mona and I are actually sitting down to write our article on the TAFL (Teaching Arabic as a Foreign Language) Center as we speak. It will be our first official accomplishment. We also got to attend a conference over the weekend hosted by an NGO that discusses issues in Egypt today and also looking into Egypt’s future. It was a very high level of Arabic, so it was difficult to understand, but a very interesting experience. The panel I attended on Thursday night talked about the opportunities and obstacles in Egypt’s future. The speakers seemed very worked up about the Iran-Israel-U.S. love/hate triangle, and also kept mentioning Turkey, though I couldn’t exactly pick up the context on that. Also, they were very concerned about Egypt being able to protect its own borders, though they never did say from whom, and also referred to the Iraq war as “America’s failure in Iraq.” Overall, very interesting to listen to. I attended a panel on Saturday about education and scientific research and development, but I understood far less from that lecture.
American Councils had its official meeting this week in Alexandria with all of the heads of the Arabic department of the Universities in flagship. I was super excited to get to see Dr. Rammuny. We all had a group meeting where we discussed our first impression in Alexandria and our classes. Then Valeria and I sat with Dr. Rammuny for a little while on our own and got to talk to him. It was nice to see him and it makes me miss being in Ann Arbor. على فكرة ala fikra- be the way- The wolverines totally kicked butt this weekend and OSU lost. GO BLUE!

Cafe Jam sessions, shisha, and a self sufficient ahwa

So we've settled into a shedule more or less.
We've got class in the morning 5 days a week, alternating between Modern Standard Arabic, Egyptian, and Media. One day a week we have a translation class in the afternoon and one day a week I go to a class at the University. This week was the first time attending this class. I chose to take a class on Media and development. I was really afraid the first day, but I actually understood a lot of the lecture. I'm still not exactly sure what all the class will encampus, but I look forward to finding out!
On top of classes, I'm also studing for the GRE which I'll be taking in mid November. So overall I'm keeping very busy. I've been trying to scope out good places to study, and one of my favorites is a western style coffee house called Clay Cafe. I was there the other day studying and two guys, one with a guitar and the other with a harp like instrument I couldn't quite identify, came in and had a 3 hour jam session in the cafe. I've been trying at attach a sound clip with no luck which I recoreded of them. Of course it has a lot of background chatter, but if you close your eyes, maybe it will be like you are actually in the cafe! I'll keep working on it and hopefully get it up later in the week.
On another note- our apartment is well on its way to becoming a self sufficient ahwa, or coffe house. We have built up quite the stash of tea, and just recently purchased some American coffee that we make in my roommate's french press, and also some turkish coffee and a little plot to make it in. We also have several kinds of hot chocolate and have actually taken to making our own hot chocolate with milk, cocoa powder, and melted chocolate. It's delicious!! We also made homemade brownies the other night!!
To add to the ahwa atmosphere, we purchased a small shisha, or hookah. We set it up on our balcony and it's a fun way to pass time by sitting on the balcony, drinking tea and smoking shisha with friends.
Though I'm still not exactly crazy about being back in Egypt, I feel like I'm more or less adjusted again. I'm enjoying living in the apartment and especially getting to cook my own food. I will hopefully have some more pictures to post soon!

Back In Alexandria!

I've included some pictures from Alexandria while Brent was here that I didn't get to post before and pictures of my apartment.

So after two weeks in America visiting family and friends and eating as much pork as I could get my hands on, I'm back in Alexandria!! I have to say, at first I wasn't very glad to be back. Being home reminded me of all the people and things that I missed, but slowly I'm remembering all the people and things that I love here too. Although unfortunately I was reminded of all the things that I dont like first. For example- when I arrived at the airport, there was a huge globe of mass confusion at the passport control. Lines are not really Egyptian's thing. If you're at a McDonald's waiting in line, people will totally just walk right up to the counter and cut in front of you. Lines- not so much. So getting through the mess of people pushing and shoving took over an hour. One woman was trying to shove me out of the way, but I held firm, and she started complaining to the man next to her about me and I turned around and responded in Arabic. The man just laughed.

Then of course the taxi driver I found was trying to marry me/ get my phone number. Even after I told him I was engaged to try to deter him. He then tried the approach, "Oh, I'm like your brother, I'm just worried about you being alone in a big city. You should call me when you arrive safely in Alexandria." Yeah. Right. He also kept getting to stop and have lunch with him. Luckily I had a good excuse that I had a train to catch.

I arrived at the train station just 15 minutes before the train was scheduled to leave, so I rushed to the ticket counter and bought my ticket and rushed to find my car. I got on with what I thought would be 5 minutes to spare, and then the train left 45 minutes late. Of course.

Then the night I got back, one of my roommates, Hannah, and I went over to our friends' apartment because they were cooking us dinner. We arrived early while they were still grocery shopping, so we sat on the Corniche on the sea for a while and just talked about break. Ramadan is clearly over, because Egyptian men are back to their old selves- trying to talk to us as they walked by, sitting like 10 feet away in a group and talking about us, walking by us and then turning around 5 feet later to walk by again. Seriously guys? Then on our way home we were walking back to our apartment from the tram and a boy about the age of 13 ran up and groped Hannah all over, like a crazy, violating hug, and then ran away. We yelled and yelled after him, but he didn't seem bothered.

Welcome back to Egypt.

But there have been good things too. It's nice to see all of my classmates back and to start classes. I like being busy with classwork. We're all working our way back into speaking Arabic again. We've also gotten our apartment all set up (minus the toilet which is in the process of being fixed and we now have to use a hanger to flush). Hannah and I even have an awesome new roommate- Her name is Elizabeth and she is doing study abroad from Western Michigan. Since we finally have 3 people living in our two bedroom apartment, I've taken the living room area and converted it into a bed room. I set up a sheet as a kind of curtain room divider and i have an awesomely comfortable (way better than my bed in the dorm) couch to sleep on. I also have my own door to the balcony. Sweet. I've included pictures in this post of our apartment and the views from our balcony.






Tonight we are actually having a house warming party and while it was supposed to be for all of the students in our program, it's turning out to be a girl's night because most of the boys in our program live in the dorms and have been in quarantine the last few days. Apparently one of the guys in our program came back from vacation with the swine flu, so they were supposed to be in quarantine for seven days. From talking to them on the phone, it sounds ridiculous. Workers and teachers are allowed to come and go as they please. So, pleople are coming in and out of the building, thus defeating the purpose. Cigarettes were being used as a form of currency by the students. There were rumours of having to share thermataters for temperature taking.

Apparently last night some of the guys broke out and went and had a beer on the beach. I don't know the whole story, but the term "hole in the fence" was used. My question is, did they dig a tunnel and was Steve McQueen involved??

This morning we heard that they are being let out today. Hopefully that won't happen again!

Meanwhile, while we've started our language classes in our center, University classes have been delayed to give the University time to prepare the buildings for swine flu. I believe that means installing new airfilters or something. With all that is going on. I hope we don't have an actual outbreak of swine flu this year since the officials seem to a) overreact to all things swine flu related and b) not really know exactly how to conduct real health safety measures.

The Egyptian government is actually really regretting killing at the pigs earlier this year because now there is a severe trash build up in Cairo. The pigs used to eat all the organic waste, and apparently other animals, such as goats are being used to a small degree, but can't consume the amount that the pigs were consuming. Hopefully next time they'll make a more informed decision.